We dress up for dinner (fully intending to play the anniversary card should the opportunity arise). We check in and are seated outdoors in a secluded corner behind a scraggly but sinister-looking oleander bush. Not a good omen; we strive to avoid being poisoned.

The restaurant fills up. We appear to be the only Americans. There are a few Brits, butmost of the diners appear to be French. Are they hiding the Americans for a reason? Or did they have to add a table at the last moment and wedge it behind the oleander? We can only speculate for the moment.

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