John writes -Zipping along the Autoroute is cool until we encounter not one but two mile-long backups behind toll plazas. Although there are Telepass lanes, the French seem not yet to have signed up. They and the innumerable Dutch caravans (our friend Waldemar warned us about these) lead us to resolve to find a different way back later in the day.
We arrive at the Tapestry museum thanks to Tom and good signage and find free parking. This is a good omen. Then we buy our tickets and learn that the audio guides are also free. Another good omen.