We are excitedly looking forward to our anniversary celebration. The day has certainly started off well with a beautiful bouquet of yellow roses!
We head up to Healdsburg for an overnight and dinner at SingleThread, a restaurant which has recently received 3 Michelin stars. We have eaten at Michelin starred places before and had some incredible meals so we are looking forward to a gastronomic extravaganza.
A pictorial rendition of our dinner –
This is the most expensive meal we have ever eaten. The blandness of the first five or so dishes is overwhelming. Along with the repetitive tastes and textures we have ordered the incredibly expensive wine pairing. The first five are all mineral forward white wines from France, Germany, and Austria. The pours are tiny. We figure they are charging about $100 a 6 oz. pour. We ask the sommelier to check back with us after we try the wine so we can discuss it or maybe even ask for something different. He ignores us completely.
At one point the serving person asks me how I liked the sake. I say that sake is not my favorite due to its floral taste. She haughtily asks me where else have I eaten? Like I am some sort of rube that just came in off the potato truck. I am taken aback.
In addition to being ignored and insulted the waitstaff also speaks in hushed whispers. We cannot hear half of what they are saying. Three times we ask them to speak more loudly. They ignore our requests.
There are some really tasty vegetables and bites that stand out in this meal. I give their kitchen staff 3 stars for tweezer use. I also enjoyed their bathroom with the Japanese toilet that opens up as you walk in and shines a purple light on the bowl. The padded seat is warm and inviting.
So next year on our anniversary we will dine at a favorite restaurant which will treat us with respect, have tasty, varied dishes, more and better wine, and not cost an embarrassing amount of money.
Today we celebrate three holidays in one – Christmas, Summer Solstice, and Fourth of July! I really like this outdoor celebration of Christmas where we have a cookout and presents seem more exciting since it has been several months since the last big gift-giving extravaganza. This is our second summer Christmas. Maybe we should do it every year!
This is our last day of our mini-vacation and I have plenty planned. Of course, things don’t always go as planned. We take the drive up US 101 to the Prairie Creek State Park which is part of the State Parks and Redwood National Parks. Once we turn off the the main road we enter into a spooky, magical world of trees, ferns, and dust from the dirt road. I think both Alex and Sam are quite taken by this other-worldly place.
After about five miles we reach the ranger station. After presenting our National Parks pass, the ranger says casually, “There are some streams crossing the road. You’ll need to use your best judgement about crossing them.” Uh oh, we hope that this is not going to be a problem.
Our plan is to get to the trailhead of Fern Canyon, a beautiful trail which meanders along a creek that empties into the ocean. On either side are ferns towering on walls up to 20 feet high. This trail is especially fun for kids because there are lots of downed trees to climb over and around and little rivulets to splash around in. Here are some pictures from 2015 when John and I were here.
We cross one little stream which is no problem at all. Then we see a fast moving stream crossing the road. We pull over to take a look. John and Jon both decide that although the stream is not too deep, the bottom is filled with slippery rocks and stones. We are in Jon’s minivan. It’s not an off-roading kind of vehicle. So our first plan is dashed.
We decide instead to head to the nearby beach where we can try the kites again. Seems like a good idea. The wind is a little swifter today and maybe we can get both kites up. We find an absolutely deserted beach and John and Jon try their hands at the kites. Alex and Sam are perfectly happy cavorting in the sand with make-believe stick swords and driftwood forts.
After managing to eke out some fun from our failed hike we move on to the next item on my agenda. We are going to the Lady Bird Johnson Grove which is an area of old growth redwoods. There is a 1.5 mile trail that loops through the forest. We also pick up a brochure on the way in with numbered sites to see. We know that Sam really enjoys finding each numbered view and he takes off to be our tour guide. He also enjoys running ahead and hiding and them jumping out at us. We have a beautiful walk through the woods.
On the way back to Trinidad we get a rare sight, an elk traffic jam! The elk stand in the middle of the road looking at us as we look at them. Finally they retreat into the woods.
Here’s a new experience for me. Everyone decides that they want Mexican food for our late lunch. Since there are not a lot of dining choices in Trinidad we end up at the Chevron gas station which has an Aztec Grill and have a rustic lunch.
After a suitable rest back at the house we go down to the beach in Trinidad. There is a picturesque harbor and a large beach. Jon, Alex, and Sam take a walk up to the headland.
We order pizza for dinner and spend the evening getting ourselves packed up. We are off for home around 9AM on Saturday morning. It is just a driving day with a necessary quick stop for ice cream.
We had a great time. The best thing that Alex could have said to me was, Beeba makes great vacations. She has everything planned out so there is always something to do.
We are off to the Trees of Mystery today! It is kind of like a Paul Bunyan theme park and I bet that most people, even Californians, have never heard of it. When you approach there is a giant statue of Paul Bunyan with his blue ox, Babe. Bunyan is voiced by someone watching the people come in and greets them personally while waving his giant hand. There are plenty of photo opportunities before you even buy your tickets.
Next is our adventure in the woods where there are lots of named trees and information about the growing cycle of redwoods.
When you get up the hill through the trees there is a gondola ride which takes you high above the trees. You can see Karl the fog rolling in off the Pacific. From here on out Sam has instituted a thumbs up meme for all his pictures.
After we descend on the gondola there is a portion of the park that is about the Paul Bunyan story with lots of carved stumps. The kids enjoyed climbing on some of the carved animals.
Lastly we are treated to another time capsule redwood cross section.
We have spent several hours at the Trees of Mystery. What does the family think of our experience?
We grab a so-so lunch at a place across the street from the park and then head back to Trinidad. The kids play video games or read for the rest of the afternoon. Jon and I both snooze in our recliner chairs. We are tired out from all the day’s excitement.
Tonight we are having our “fancy” dinner at a seafood restaurant called SALT in Arcata. It turns out to be a great experience with Alex and Sam trying fried calamari for the first time (a hit!). They also both try steamed mussels. This was a split decision with Sam giving it a thumbs up and Alex thinking that this seafood is not for him.
After enjoying our breakfast at the Holiday Inn, we plan our day in Eureka. Later today we will head up to Trinidad and to our rental. The first thing on the agenda today is a look at the exterior of the Carson Mansion. The mansion is one of the finest examples of Queen Anne Victorian architecture. Since it is a private club we cannot go inside but we look at it from the outside and also at the pink house across the street. Since we are going to a Victorian millworks later this morning this is a good place to start. Exterior and interior wood pieces for these late 19th century houses are still being made at the Blue Ox Millworks in Eureka.
Our next stop is at the Blue Ox Millworks. John and I have been here a couple of times before and enjoyed our visits to this working millworks and also trade school for at-risk teenagers. We are shown around by one of the staff who demonstrates the old-timey machines.
We wander around the rest of the complex looking at the old printing presses and talking about manual typesetting. Imagine having to set type in mirror image! Each font is in a separate drawer. It is especially fascinating to me since my grandfather Rogers used to run a press in his basement and set all his type by hand. Outside we look at other workshops, horses, and a giant cross-section of a redwood. I think this attraction is a bigger hit with the adults than the kids.
Our next stop is at the Clendenon Cider Works. I figure this can work as a refreshment stop and a demonstration on how cider is made. Uh-oh we strike out. The cider works are not open until August. Oh well, next on my list is the Loleta Cheese factory. Even though when we get there they are not demonstrating cheese making at least there are a lot of free samples. I think Sam and Alex try everything at least twice. I thought the cheese was pretty blah but the kids like it.
So the morning is not terribly successful. But it is lunchtime and everyone always likes to cast their votes for where to eat. It seems like Mexican food is high on list of preferred cuisines so we stop at La Patria Mexican restaurant. Everybody is pretty happy with the food. Alex proclaims that these are the best chips ever!
There is still some time to kill before we can head up to the rental in Trinidad so we head for the beach. Beyond Humboldt Bay there are barrier islands which can be accessed by a couple of bridges from Eureka. We drive down to the Samoa Dunes Recreation Area and try our hands at kite flying. Jonathan has some luck getting one of the kites flying but the other one is a dud. Alex and Sam each get a turn flying the kite that works but one kite for two kids is not optimal.
Next we head out to the beach where it is pretty much deserted. Jon and John try the kites again. No luck. But Sam and Alex are perfectly happy digging around in the sand, pretending things are forts and finding sticks to battle with.
Now we head up to Trinidad and check into the very hot rental apartment. It must be setting heat records all up and down the coast! The ad had said the rental has air conditioning but when I call the owner about it he just laughs and tells me you do not need air conditioning in Trinidad. It is over 85F in the rental so we open all the windows and turn on the ceiling fans. It finallly cools off in the evening. Jon and I head to the store for some groceries and Jon makes pasta and sauce which everyone enjoys. We settle into our new space and have an enjoyable evening watching The LEGO Movie.
Our long awaited trip up the Northern California coast from our house all the way to Trinidad, CA starts today! Since we have a lot of stuff and people we opt to take Jon’s van. As usual the grownups have long discussions about how and where to pack everything. Alex is definitely patient during this phase of the trip.
And finally we are off! Our first stop is at the Bay Model in Sausalito. The commute traffic is still raging so we have a somewhat longer trip than we anticipated. But everyone is in good spirits and I, of course, try to fill the time with scintillating facts about our first stop.
The Bay Model was built by the Army Corps of Engineers to predict the effects of various projects that impact the bay. It is about the size of two football fields and it is scaled according to area but magnified 10X in depth. The water flows in and out to replicate the tides. We don headphones to listen to the detailed information at the 25 listening stops. Sam is amazingly gung-ho in learning about the model. He really enjoys listening to and then finding the next stop.
We have been here with Jon and Sarah probably 25 years ago so we are all seeing this with fresh eyes.
After an hour or so we get back in the van. The ride up to Eureka, our first overnight stop, is about 3.5 hours away. First order of business is finding some lunch. We decide on eating at The Habit in Santa Rosa. Everyone enjoys their hamburgers and fries (or onion rings in Zayde’s case) and Jonathan announces that The Habit will now be his go-to burger place!
We drive for a couple of hours and the kids are really excellent in the car. They listen to podcasts on their headphones and take little naps. Around Leggett, CA we stop at a gas station with expensive gas only payable in cash and definitely a kind of creepy attendant. Surviving this Deliverance moment we add a trip to the Drive-Thru tree for some ice cream. Jon’s van is really too large to drive-thru the tree comfortably but it is fun to take pictures and watch other people drive their cars through.
Our final stop before Eureka is at the Avenue of the Giants Visitor Center. Unfortunately the Center closes at 5 PM and we get there at 4:45 PM. But it is enough time to see the big cross section of redwood with its rings dated and look at the exhibit about Charles Kellogg who extinguished a flame with his voice. This feat was not duplicated again until Jonathan did it on Mythbusters a few years ago.
Now it is a sprint to Eureka where we check into the Holiday Inn Express and find some dinner at the Lost Coast Brewery Pub. We have a fine dinner of Po’Boy, Buffalo Chicken Wings, Rueben sandwich, kid-size pizza, and fish and chips. These entrees are, of course, served with piles of French fries. We are off to healthy start to our vacation!
I had a pretty horrible May which started with a cold and ended up worse and worse until I was forced to go to the doctor and get some cortisone to try to quell the lung inflammation. But a few things were happening-
After we got home from our long trip across the ocean and back, we had a couple of occasions in April. We celebrated Passover twice, once with Sarah’s friends and once with Jonathan and Leigh. Our second celebration was disappointing since Ryan, Alex and Sam were sick.
On Easter we had dinner at Rose and John Henderson’s Where Alex and Sam got to search for candy and other surprises. Rose made a delicious ham for our luncheon.
And then I got sick with bronchitis which continued for most of May.
I have been raving about the dinners at Finca Prats Resort in Lleida but they also have excellent breakfasts. We like that they have English/American breakfasts and not just pastries and cold cuts. As a non-sweet eater the breakfast pickings are pretty slim sometimes.
Today our sightseeing is focused on Huesca in the northeast of Spain. Huesca pre-dates The Roman era. It was conquered by the Moors and repatriated to Christian Spain in the 12th century. It is the burial place of at least two Kings of Aragon. Huesca saw heavy fighting in the Spanish Civil War. Now it is a quiet town of about 52,000 people.
John and I have a really hard time finding a parking spot. We drive around and around getting caught in some old sections of town where the streets are barely wider than the car. We are about to give up when we find an underground garage at their transit center. There are quite a few unused spaces. Huescans must not like to pay for parking.
The patron Saint of Huesca is St. Lawrence who was born here. He was martyred by being burnt on a grill. In our wandering s we come across a church which is dedicated to St. Lawrence so we stop in for a look.
The interior of the basilica is done in a classical style having been built in 17th and 18th century. That puts it out of my strike zone. There’s a painting of St. Lawrence being burnt on the grill over the altar which is badly in need of cleaning. The inlaid grill on the floor is a nice touch, though.
From here we make our way over to the Abbey of Saint Peter the Old (San Pedro Viejo). This is a very old church founded by Benedictine monks in the 12th century. We go in and ask the church minder if they have pamphlets about the church in English. Sorry, no. So we figure we will stumble about trying to find things of interest. The church minder has, in the meantime, been ruffling through his files and comes up with a commentary on the church in English. He and we sort of talk about the church. He turns on lights for us and tells us to be sure to see the cloister.
The real deal is outside in the cloister. The capitals on the columns are resplendent with early carvings of the Old and New Testaments and the struggle of man against evil. They are done in a very early style which is to me reminiscent of the Longobards in Italy. The figures are primitive. Some of the capitals have been restored.
We have spent a long and productive morning in Huesca and it is time for lunch. I say to John that I cannot face another lunch where it takes forever and we have too much to eat. So we set out to try to find a simple sandwich in a cafe where you can sit down to eat it.
Down by the city hall we find a place that has a large seating area and a sign saying that they have a selection of sandwiches. John has me sit at a table while he goes to order some lunch. He orders two ham and cheese sandwiches (because he knows the Spanish for this) and two beers. Ah, what pleasure to have a sandwich for lunch with no one hovering over us.
After this we head back to Lleida to pack because we are leaving in the morning for Barcelona airport. Later, I am ashamed to say, we eat dinner at a normal time at a nearby McDonald’s. It’s pretty poor even for McDonald’s but with enough ketchup it tastes pretty okay.
The next morning we head for Barcelona and our flights back to SFO. We are, of course, screened thoroughly once at the security check and once again at an enhanced security check where we have to take our shoes and such off and get wanded over and wiped with tissues for traces of who knows what. This happened to me on our last trip as well. I must look shifty. It does seem to me that their efforts might be better spent with someone who is not a 70 year old grandmother.
From Barcelona we fly to Philadelphia where we have to go through the whole security routine again. Then on to SFO on a very turbulent flight. At the end is our sweet Sarah who has come to pick us up. I had a mostly good time on this vacation but I am glad to be home.
Today we head out in our very comfortable rental car for a day in Zaragoza. It is about one and a half hours from Lleida. Along the way we cross the Prime Meridian which has an arch indicating its position. The landscape seems to be drier and drier as we head north.
Our first visit is to the Moorish castle, Aljaferia. It was built during the second half of the 11th century. After the reconquest by the Christians in 1118 the castle underwent many renovations over the ensuing centuries and received major damage during the Napoleonic invasions. It was restored during the 20th century.
The castle has typical Islamic decoration with geometric patterns and Islamic script with no human forms which are prohibited in Islam.
It seems a shame to give up our good parking space but we want to take a look at the Zaragoza cathedral. It is located close to the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar. When we come up out of the parking garage we are not sure which is which. I am not interested in the Lady of the Pillar church since it was mostly built in the 17th to the 19th century and is a pilgrimage site. Apparently the Apostle James saw an apparition of the Virgin Mary and she asked him to build a church dedicated to her on the site. I am not interested in seeing this church because it is out of my interest zone of medieval and early Renaissance art. But we go take a look just in case there is anything good inside. (There is not.)
The Le Seo de Zaragoza or Zaragoza Cathedral is at the end of the immense plaza. It is another gargantuan church. It is built on the site of the Roman Forum and was formerly a mosque. It has undergone a great deal of renovation.
Since I have not recovered from my fall yet, I am hurting by the time we have done all the walking to and inside the churches. I am feeling grumpy and want to stop for lunch so I can sit down. We walk most of the way back down the plaza pass the the Goya Museum and the scary looking sculpture outside the city hall when we finally find an arcade with a restaurant, El Ciclon.
The waitstaff are very nice and explain the menu to us. For 14.90E you get a first course, a main course, a dessert and a glass of wine. Eating seems like such a production here. I am beginning to long for fast food. Although the lunch got off to a good start, my main course, bacalao, comes out stone cold with congealed sauce. I really don’t care because I do not want to eat it anyway.
So now it is around 3PM and we have an hour and a half ride back. I am trying hard not to fall asleep during the ride. When we got back I take a nap and shower before heading off to the dinner extravaganza.
We have a dinner reservation at 8:30 PM and show up promptly. I am not sure that any of the staff is actually expecting anyone before at least 9 PM. I do not understand why Spaniards eat so late! The dinner is lovely but I am fooded out. It all seems to take so long. Seriously if they had just given us a basket of bread with that exquisite olive oil and a glass of wine I would have been happy.